With about two hours to see Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square on my one day tour of Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley, I’m here to see the temple at Taumadhi Square; peruse genuine Newari pottery in Pottery Square; marvel at what’s left of a city nearly destroyed by a devastating earthquake less than a year ago.

My walk takes me past buildings standing precariously amid piles of rubble. Am I the only one who sees?…